I have never written anything like this before, and I'm not sure I'm the type. But a woman at the next table in a café in Motueka asked me about my bag last weekend, and then her friend asked, and then the waitress asked. By the third time I'd told the story, Pam said, for heaven's sake, Jude, just write it down. So here it is.
It isn't really about a bag. It starts with my granddaughter Ella, who is twenty-four and plans her life around road trips. She was over for Sunday lunch in the winter, scrolling through photos of the Catlins on her phone, when she looked up and asked me something nobody had asked me in about forty years.